The Pied Piper of Chiang Khong (Phu Ki leads the parade)

By John Roberts 25 October 2008 01:10:00

The word is out there on the dirt road, they're whispering in their Government meetings, if it is time for the temple parade and the village elders once again are rambling on about the good old days before the trees went, when there were elephants behind every bush and a parade wasn't a parade unless it was led by a bona fide be-tusked giant.

The word is out, if it is traditional, we have not much else to do and if you want to keep your Grandfathers happy, come and see Amp up at the big hotel - officially my terms are that it doesn't cost me anything but sleep, the elephant gets a tip of sugarcane and the mahouts get a tip of a more adaptable kind.

Of course, it always ends up costing me more than sleep as the truck driver has forgotten to fill up with fuel, the mahouts need lunch, a new uniform to look good, a new hat to look traditional and temples always need a donation (of a more adaptable kind) but it is always worth it to try and put elephants back in the forefront of local folks' minds.

The middle of October sees the end of Buddhist Lent, the three month period where the monks are supposed not to venture forth from their temples lest they tread on and kill the growing shoots bought abundantly about by the rains, the three months where the devout give up alcohol (as with Christian Lent in most cases for between seven to ten days - but at least they try), by the time the third full moon rolls around the monks are traditionally invited back out of their temples in a Krathin Ceremony, wherein they are prepared for the year ahead and all in the land - from HM the King on down - present them with new robes and other essentials.

It is also a good excuse for a parade and, as Grandfather incessantly tells you, a parade ain't a parade without an ele...